Water froze last night, and fires are very comfortable. The scenery
becomes hourly more interesting and grand, and the view here is truly
magnificent; but, indeed, it needs something to repay the long prairie
journey of 1,000 miles. The sun has just shot above the wall, and makes
a magical change. The whole valley is glowing and bright, and all the
mountain-peaks are gleaming like silver. Though these snow mountains are
not the Alps, they have their own character of grandeur and
magnificence, and will doubtless find pens and pencils to do them
justice. In the scene before us, we feel how much wood improves a view.
The pines on the mountain seemed to give it much additional beauty. I
was agreeably disappointed in the character of the streams on this side
the ridge. Instead of the creeks, which description had led me to
expect, I find bold, broad streams, with three or four feet of water,
and a rapid current. The fork on which we are encamped is upward of 100
feet wide, timbered with graves or thickets of the low willow. We were
now approaching the loftiest part of the Wind River chain; and I left
the valley a few miles from our encampment, intending to penetrate the
mountains, as far as possible, with the whole party. We were soon
involved in very broken ground, among long ridges covered with fragments
of granite. Winding our way up a long ravine, we came unexpectedly in
view of a most beautiful lake, set like a gem in the mountains. The
sheet of water lay transversely across the direction we had been
pursuing; and, descending the steep, rocky ridge, where it was necessary
to lead our horses, we followed its banks to the southern extremity.
Here a view of the utmost magnificence and grandeur burst upon our eyes.
With nothing between us and their feet to lessen the effect of the whole
height, a grand bed of snow-capped mountains rose before us, pile upon
pile, glowing in the bright light of an August day. Immediately below
them lay the lake, between two ridges, covered with dark pines, which
swept, down from the main chain to the spot where we stood. Here, where
the lake glittered in the open sunlight, its banks of yellow sand and
the light foliage of aspen groves contrasted well with the gloomy pines.
" Never before," said Mr. Preuss, " in this country or in Europe, have I
seen such magnificent, grand rocks." I was so much pleased with the
beauty of the place that I determined to make the main camp here, where
our animals would find good pasturage, and explore the mountains with a
small party of men. Proceeding a little further, we came suddenly upon
the outlet of the lake, where it found its way through a narrow passage
between low hills. Dark pines, which overhung the stream, and masses of
rock, where the water foamed along, gave it much romantic beauty. Where
we crossed, which was immediately at the outlet, it is two hundred and
fifty feet wide, and so deep that with difficulty we were able to ford
it. Its bed was an accumulation of rocks, boulders, and broad slabs, and
large angular fragments, among which the animals fell repeatedly.
The current was very swift, and the water cold and of a crystal
purity. In crossing this stream, I met with a great misfortune in having
my barometer broken. It was the only one. A great part of the interest
of the journey for me was in the exploration of these mountains, of
which so much had been said that was doubtful and contradictory; and now
their snowy peaks rose majestically before me, and the only means of
giving them authentically to science, the object of my anxious
solicitude by night and day, was destroyed. We had brought this
barometer in safety 1,000 miles, and broke it almost among the snow of
the mountains. The loss was felt by the whole camp. All had seen my
anxiety, and aided me in preserving it. The height of these mountains,
considered by the hunters and traders the highest in the whole range,
had been a theme of constant discussion among them; and all had looked
forward with pleasure to the moment when the instrument, which they
believed to be as true as the sun, should stand upon the summits and
decide their disputes. Their grief was only inferior to my own.
This lake is about 3 miles long and of very irregular width and
apparently great depth, and is the headwater of the third New Fork, a
tributary to Green River, the Colorado of the West. On the map and in
the narrative I have called it Mountain Lake. I encamped on the north
side, about 350 yards from the outlet. This was the most western point
at which I obtained astronomical observations, by which this place,
called Bernier's encampment, is made in 110° 08' 03' W. long. from
Greenwich, and lat. 43° 49' 49". The mountain peaks, as laid down, were
fixed by bearings from this and other astronomical points. We had no
other compass than the small ones used in sketching the country; but
from an azimuth, in which one of them was used, the variation of the
compass is 18° E. The correction made in our field work by the
astronomical observations indicates that this is a very correct
observation. As soon as the camp was formed, I set about endeavoring
to repair my barometer. As I have already said, this was a standard
cistern barometer, of Troughton's construction. The glass cistern had
been broken about midway; but, as the instrument had been kept in a
proper position, no air had found its way into the tube, the end of
which had always remained covered. I had with me a number of phials of
tolerably thick glass, some of which were of the same diameter as the
cistern, and I spent the day in slowly working on these, endeavoring to
cut them of the requisite length; but, as my instrument was a very rough
file, I invariably broke them. A groove was cut in one of the trees,
where the barometer was placed during the night, to be out of the way of
any possible danger; and in the morning I commenced again. Among the
powder-horns in the camp, I found one which was very transparent, so
that its contents could be almost as plainly seen as through glass. This
I boiled and stretched on a piece of wood to the requisite diameter, and
scraped it very thin, in order to increase to the utmost its
transparency. I then secured it firmly in its place on the instrument
with strong glue made from a buffalo, and filled it with mercury
properly heated. A piece of skin, which had covered one of the phials,
furnished a good pocket, which was well secured with strong thread and
glue; and then the brass cover was screwed into its place. The
instrument was left some time to dry; and, when I reversed it, a few
hours after, I had the satisfaction to find it in perfect order, its
indications being about the same as on the other side of the lake before
it had been broken. Our success in this little incident diffused
pleasure throughout the camp; and we immediately set about our
preparations for ascending the mountains. As will be seen, on
reference to a map, on this short mountain chain are the headwaters of
four great rivers of the continent,—namely, the Colorado, Columbia,
Missouri, and Platte Rivers. It had been my design, after having
ascended the mountains, to continue our route on the western side of the
range, and, crossing through a pass at the northwestern end of the
chain, about 30 miles from our present camp, return along the eastern
slope across the heads of the Yellowstone River, and join on the line to
our station of August 7, immediately at the foot of the ridge. In this
way, I should be enabled to include the whole chain and its numerous
waters in my survey; but various considerations induced me, very
reluctantly, to abandon this plan. I was desirous to keep strictly
within the scope of my instructions; and it would have required ten or
fifteen additional days for the accomplishment of this object. Our
animals had become very much worn out with the length of the journey;
game was very scarce; and, though it does not appear in the course of
the narrative (as I have avoided dwelling upon trifling incidents not
connected with the objects of the expedition), the spirits of the men
had been much exhausted by the hardships and privations to which they
had been subjected. Our provisions had wellnigh all disappeared. Bread
had been long out of the question; and of all our stock we had remaining
two or three pounds of coffee and a small quantity of macaroni, which
bad been husbanded with great care for the mountain expedition we were
about to undertake. Our daily meal consisted of dry buffalo meat cooked
in tallow; and, as we had not dried this with Indian skill, part of it
was spoiled, and what remained of good was as hard as wood, having much
the taste and appearance of so many pieces of bark. Even of this, our
stock was rapidly diminishing in a camp which was capable of consuming
two buffaloes in every twenty-four hours. These animals had entirely
disappeared, and it was not probable that we should fall in with them
again until we returned to the Sweet Water. Our arrangements for the
ascent were rapidly completed. We were in a hostile country, which
rendered the greatest vigilance and circumspection necessary. The pass
at the north end of the mountain was generally infested by Blackfeet;
and immediately opposite was one of their forts, on the edge of a little
thicket, two or three hundred feet from our encampment. We were posted
in a grove of beech, on the margin of the lake, and a few hundred feet
long, with a narrow prairillon on the inner side, bordered by the rocky
ridge. In the upper end of this grove we cleared a circular space about
40 feet in diameter, and with the felled timber and interwoven branches
surrounded it with a breastwork 5 feet in height. A gap was left for a
gate on the inner side, by which the animals were to be driven in and
secured, while the men slept around the little work. It was half hidden
by the foliage, and, garrisoned by twelve resolute men, would have set
at defiance any band of savages which might chance to discover them in
the interval of our absence. Fifteen of the best mules, with fourteen
men, were selected for the mountain party. Our provisions consisted of
dried meat for two days, with our little stock of coffee and some
macaroni. In addition to the barometer and thermometer I took with me a
sextant spy-glass, and we had, of course, our compasses. In charge of
the camp I left Brenier, one of my most trustworthy men, who possessed
the most determined courage. August 12.
Early in the morning we left the camp, fifteen in number,
well armed, of course, and mounted on our best mules. A pack animal
carried our provisions, with a coffee-pot and kettle and three or four
tin cups. Every man had a blanket strapped over his saddle, to serve for
his bed, and the instruments were carried by turns on their backs. We
entered directly on rough and rocky ground, and, just after crossing the
ridge, had the good fortune to shoot an ante-lope. We heard the roar,
and had a glimpse of a waterfall as we rode along; and, crossing in our
way two fine streams, tributary to the Colorado, in about two hours'
ride we reached the top of the first row or range of the mountains.
Here, again, a view of the most romantic beauty met our eyes. It seemed
as if, from the vast expanse of uninteresting prairie we had passed
over, nature had collected all her beauties together in one chosen
place. We were overlooking a deep valley, which was entirely occupied by
three lakes, and from the brink the surrounding ridges rose
precipitously 500 and 1,000 feet, covered with the dark green of the
balsam pine, relieved on the border of the lake with the light foliage
of the aspen. They all communicated with each other; and the green of
the waters, common to mountain lakes of great depth, showed that it
would be impossible to cross them. The surprise manifested by our guides
when these impassable obstacles suddenly barred our progress proved that
they were among the hidden treasures of the place, unknown even to the
wandering trappers of the region. Descending the hill, we proceeded to
make our way along the margin to the southern extremity. A narrow strip
of angular fragments of rock sometimes afforded a rough pathway for our
mules; but generally we rode along the shelving side, occasionally
scrambling up, at a considerable risk of tumbling back into the lake.
The slope was frequently 60°. The pines grew densely together, and the
ground was covered with the branches and trunks of trees. The air was
fragrant with the odor of the pines; and I realized this delightful
morning the pleasure of breathing that mountain air which makes a
constant theme of the hunter's praise, and which now made us feel as if
we had all been drinking some exhilarating gas. The depths of this
unexplored forest were a place to delight the heart of a botanist. There
was a rich undergrowth of plants and numerous gay-colored flowers in
brilliant bloom. We reached the outlet at length, where some freshly
barked willows that lay in the water showed that beaver had been
recently at work. There were some small brown squirrels jumping and out
in the pines and a couple of large mallard ducks swimming about in the
stream. The hills on this southern end were low, and the lake looked
like a mimic sea as the waves broke on the sandy beach in the force of a
strong breeze. There was a pretty open spot, with fine grass for our
mules; and we made our noon halt on the beach, under the shade of some
large hemlocks. We resumed our journey after a halt of about an hour,
making our way up the ridge on the western side of the lake. In search
of smoother ground, we rode a little inland, and, passing through groves
of aspen, soon found ourselves again among the pines. Emerging from
these, we struck the summit of the ridge above the upper end of the
lake. We had reached a very elevated point; and in the valley below
and among the hills were a number of lakes at different levels, some two
or three hundred feet above others, with which they communicated by
foaming torrents. Even to our great height, the roar of the cataracts
came up; and we could see them leaping down in lines of snowy foam. From
this scene of busy waters, we turned abruptly into the stillness of a
forest, where we rode among the open bolls of the pines over a lawn of
verdant grass, having strikingly the air of cultivated grounds. This led
us, after a time, among masses of rock, which had no vegetable earth but
in hollows and crevices, though still the pine forest continued. Towards
evening we reached a defile, or rather a hole in the mountains, entirely
shut in by dark pine-covered rocks. A small stream, with a scarcely
perceptible current, flowed through a level bottom of perhaps 80 yards'
width where the grass was saturated with water. Into this the mules were
turned, and were neither hobbled nor picketed during the night, as the
fine pasturage took away all temptation to stray; and we made our
bivouac in the pines. The surrounding masses were all of granite. While
supper was being prepared, I set out on an excursion in the
neighborhood, accompanied by one of my men. We wandered about among the
crags and ravines until dark, richly repaid for our walk by a fine
collection of plants, many of them in full bloom. Ascending a peak to
find the place of our camp, we saw that the little defile in which we
lay communicated with the long green valley of some stream, which, here
locked up in the mountains, far away to the south, found its way in a
dense forest to the plains. Looking along its upward course, it seemed
to conduct by a smooth gradual slope directly towards the peak, which,
from long consultation as we approached the mountain, we had decided to
be the highest of the range. Pleased with the discovery of so fine a
road for the next day, we hastened down to the camp, where we arrived
just in time for supper. Our table service was rather scant; and we held
the meat in our hands, and clean rocks made good plates on which to
spread our macaroni. Among all the strange places on which we had
occasion to encamp during our long journey, none have left so vivid an
impression on my mind as the camp of this evening. The disorder of the
masses which surrounded us, the little hole through which we saw the
stars overhead, the dark pines where we slept, and the rocks lit up with
the glow of our fires made a night picture of very wild beauty.
August 13. - The morning was bright and
pleasant, just cool enough to make exercise agreeable; and we soon
entered the defile I had seen the preceding day. It was smoothly
carpeted with a soft grass and scattered over with groups of flowers, of
which yellow was the predominant color. Sometimes we were forced by an
occasional difficult pass to pick our way on a narrow ledge along the
side of the defile, and the mules were frequently on their knees; but
these obstructions were rare, and we journeyed on in the sweet morning
air, delighted at our good fortune in having found such a beautiful
entrance to the mountains. This road continued for about 3 miles, when
we suddenly reached its termination in one of the grand views which at
every turn meet the traveler in this magnificent region. Here the defile
up which we had traveled opened out into a small lawn, where, in a
little lake, the stream had its source. There were some fine asters in
bloom, but all the flowering plants appeared to seek the shelter of the
rocks and to be of lower growth than below, as if they loved the warmth
of the soil, and kept out of the way of the winds. Immediately at our
feet a precipitous descent led to a confusion of defiles, and before us
rose the mountains. It is not by the splendor of far-off views, which
have lent such a glory to the Alps, that these impress the mind, but by
a gigantic disorder of enormous masses and a savage sublimity of naked
rock in wonderful contrast with innumerable green spots of a rich floral
beauty shut up in their stern recesses. Their wildness seems well suited
to the character of the people who inhabit the country. I determined
to leave our animals here and make the rest of our way on foot. The peak
appeared so near that there was no doubt of our returning before night;
and a few men were left in charge of the mules, with our provisions and
blankets. We took with us nothing but our arms and instruments, and, as
the day had become warm, the greater part left our coats. Having made an
early dinner, we started again. We were soon involved in the most ragged
precipices, nearing the central chain very slowly, and rising but
little. The first ridge hid a succession of others; and when, with great
fatigue and difficulty, we had climbed up 500 feet, it was but to make
an equal descent on the other side. All these intervening places were
filled with small deep lakes, which met the eye in every direction,
descending from one level to another, sometimes under bridges formed by
huge fragments of granite, beneath which was heard the roar of the
water. These constantly obstructed our path, forcing us to make long
detours, frequently obliged to retrace our steps, and frequently falling
among the rocks. Maxwell was precipitated towards the face of a
precipice, and saved himself from going over by throwing himself flat on
the ground. We clambered on, always expecting with every ridge that we
crossed to reach the foot of the peaks, and always disappointed, until
about four o'clock, when, pretty well worn out, we reached the shore of
a little lake in which there was a rocky island, and from which we
obtained the view given in the frontispiece. We remained here a short
time to rest, and continued on around the lake, which had in some places
a beach of white sand, and in others was bound with rocks, over which
the way was difficult and dangerous, as the water from innumerable
springs made them very slippery. By the time we had reached the
farther side of the lake, we found ourselves all exceedingly fatigued,
and, much to the satisfaction of the whole party, we encamped. The spot
we had chosen was a broad, flat rock, in some measure protected from the
winds by the surrounding crags, and the trunks of fallen pines afforded
us bright fires. Near by was a foaming torrent which tumbled into the
little lake about 150 feet below us, and which, by way of distinction,
we have called Island Lake. We had reached the upper limit of the piney
region; as above this point no tree was to be seen, and patches of snow
lay everywhere around us on the cold sides of the rocks. The flora of
the region we had traversed since leaving our mules was extremely rich,
and among the characteristic plants the scarlet flowers of the
Dodecatheon dentatum everywhere met the eye in great abundance. A
small green ravine, on the edge of which we were encamped, was filled
with a profusion of alpine plants in brilliant bloom. From barometrical
observations made during our three days' sojourn at this place, its
elevation above the Gulf of Mexico is 10,000 feet. During the day we had
seen no sign of animal life; but among the rocks here we heard what was
supposed to be the bleat of a young goat, which we searched for with
hungry activity, and found to proceed from a small animal of a gray
color, with short ears and no tail,—probably the Siberian squirrel. We
saw a considerable number of them, and, with the exception of a small
bird like a sparrow, it is the only inhabitant of this elevated part of
the mountains. On our return we saw below this lake large flocks of the
mountain-goat. We had nothing to eat tonight. Lajeunesse with several
others took their guns and sallied out in search of a goat, but returned
unsuccessful. At sunset the barometer stood at 20.522, the attached
thermometer 50°. Here we had the misfortune to break our thermometer,
having now only that attached to the barometer. I was taken ill shortly
after we had encamped, and continued so until late in the night, with
violent headache and vomiting. This was probably caused by the excessive
fatigue I had undergone and want of food, and perhaps also in some
measure by the rarity of the air. The night was cold, as a violent gale
from the north had sprung up at sunset, which entirely blew away the
heat of the fires. The cold and our granite beds had not been favorable
to sleep, and we were glad to see the face of the sun in the morning.
Not being delayed by any preparation for breakfast, we set out
immediately. On every side as we advanced was heard the roar of waters
and of a torrent, which we followed up a short distance until it
expanded into a lake about one mile in length. On the northern side of
the lake was a bank of ice, or rather of snow covered with a crust of
ice. Carson had been our guide into the mountain, and agreeably to his
advice we left this little valley and took to the ridges again, which we
found extremely broken and where we were again involved among
precipices. Here were icefields; among which we were all dispersed,
seeking each the best path to ascend the peak. Mr. Preuss attempted to
walk along the upper edge of one of these fields, which sloped away at
an angle of about twenty degrees; but his feet slipped from under him,
and he went plunging down the plane. A few hundred feet below, at the
bottom, were some fragments of sharp rock, on which he landed, and,
though he turned a couple of somersets, fortunately received no injury
beyond a few bruises. Two of the men, Clement Lambert and Descoteaux,
had been taken ill, and lay down on the rocks a short distance below;
and at this point I was attacked with headache and, giddiness,
accompanied by vomiting, as on the day before. Finding myself unable to
proceed, I sent the barometer over to Mr. Preuss, who was in a gap two
or three hundred yards distant, desiring him to reach the peak, if
possible, and take an observation there. He found himself unable to
proceed farther in that direction, and took an observation where the
barometer stood at 19.401, attached thermometer 50° in the gap. Carson,
who had gone over to him, succeeded in reaching one of the snowy summits
of the main ridge, whence he saw the peak towards which all our efforts
had been directed towering 800 or 1,000 feet into the air above him. In
the mean time, finding himself grow rather worse than better, and
doubtful how far my strength would carry me, I sent Basil Lajeunesse
with four men back to the place where the mules had been left. We were
now better acquainted with the topography of the country; and I directed
him to bring back with him, if it were in any way possible, four or five
mules, with provisions and blankets. With me were Maxwell and Ayer; and,
after we had remained nearly an hour on the rock, it became so
unpleasantly cold, though the day was bright, that we set out on our
return to the camp, at which we all arrived safely, straggling in one
after the other. I continued ill during the afternoon, but became better
towards sundown, when my recovery was completed by the appearance of
Basil and four men, all mounted. The men who had gone with him had been
too much fatigued to return, and were relieved by those in charge of the
horses; but in his powers of endurance Basil resembled more a
mountain-goat than a man. They brought blankets and provisions, and we
enjoyed well our dried meat and a cup of good coffee. We rolled
ourselves up in our blankets, and, with our feet turned to a blazing
fire, slept soundly until morning. August 15.
- It had been supposed that we had finished with the
mountains; and the evening before it had been arranged that Carson
should set out at daylight, and return to breakfast at the Camp of the
Mules, taking with him all but four or five men, who were to stay with
me and bring back the mules and instruments. Accordingly, at the break
of day they set out. With Mr. Preuss and myself remained Basil
Lajeunesse, Clement Lambert, Janisse, and Descoteaux. When we had
secured strength for the day by a hearty breakfast, we covered what
remained, which was enough for one meal, with rocks, in order that it
might be safe from any marauding bird, and saddling our mules, turned
our faces once more towards the peaks. This time we determined to
proceed quietly and cautiously, deliberately resolved to accomplish our
object, if it were within the compass of human means. We were of opinion
that a long defile which lay to the left of yesterday's route would lead
us to the foot of the main peak. Our mules had been refreshed by the
fine grass in the little ravine at the island camp, and we intended to
ride up the defile as far as possible, in order to husband our strength
for the main ascent. Though this was a fine passage, still it was a
defile of the most rugged mountains known, and we had many a rough and
steep slippery place to cross before reaching the end. In this place the
sun rarely shone. Snow lay along the border of the small stream which
flowed through it, and occasional icy passages made the footing of the
mules very insecure; and the rocks and ground were moist with the
trickling waters in this spring of mighty rivers. We soon had the
satisfaction to find ourselves riding along the huge wall which forms
the central summits of the chain. There at last it rose by our sides, a
nearly perpendicular wall of granite, terminating 2,000 to 3,000 feet
above our heads in a serrated line of broken, jagged cones. We rode on
until we came almost immediately below the main peak, which I
denominated the Snow Peak, as it exhibited more snow to the eye than any
of the neighboring summits. Here were three small lakes of a green
color, each perhaps 1,000 yards in diameter, and apparently very deep.
These lay in a kind of chasm; and, according to the barometer, we had
attained but a few hundred feet above the Island Lake. The barometer
here stood at 20.450, attached thermometer 70°. We managed to get our
mules up to a little bench about 100 feet above the lakes, where there
was a patch of good grass, and turned them loose to graze. During our
rough ride to this place, they had exhibited a wonderful surefootedness.
Parts of the defile were filled with angular, sharp fragments of rock,-3
or 4 and 8 or 10 feet cube,—and among these they had worked their way,
leaping from one narrow point to another, rarely making a false step,
and giving us no occasion to dismount. Having divested ourselves of
every unnecessary encumbrance, we commenced the ascent. This time, like
experienced travelers, we did not press ourselves, but climbed
leisurely, sitting down as soon as we found breath beginning to fail. At
intervals we reached places where a number of springs gushed from the
rocks, and about 1,800 feet above the lakes came to the snow-line. From
this point our progress was uninterrupted climbing. Hitherto I had worn
a pair of thick moccasins, with soles of parfleche; but here I put on a
light thin pair, which I had brought for the purpose, as now the use of
our toes became necessary to a further advance. I availed myself of a
sort of comb of the mountains, which stood against the wall like a
buttress, and which the wind and the solar radiation, joined to the
steepness of the smooth rock, had kept almost entirely free from snow.
Up this I made my way rapidly. Our cautious method of advancing in the
outset had spared my strength; and, with the exception of a slight
disposition to headache, I felt no remains of yesterday's illness. In a
few minutes we reached a point where the buttress was overhanging, and
there was no other way of surmounting the difficulty than by passing
around one side of it, which was the face of a vertical precipice of
several hundred feet. Putting hands and feet in the crevices between
the blocks, I succeeded in getting over it, and, when I reached the top,
found my companions in a small valley below. Descending to them, we
continued climbing, and in a short time reached the crest. I sprang upon
the summit, and another step would have precipitated me into an immense
snow-field 500 feet below. To the edge of this field was a sheer icy
precipice; and then, with a gradual fall, the field sloped off for about
a mile, until it struck the foot of another lower ridge. I stood on a
narrow crest, about 3 feet in width, with an inclination of about 20° N.
51° E. As soon as I had gratified the first feelings of curiosity, I
descended, and each man ascended in his turn; for I would only allow one
at a time to mount the unstable and precarious slab, which it seemed a
breath would hurl into the abyss below. We mounted the barometer in the
snow of the summit, and, fixing a ramrod in a crevice, unfurled the
national flag to wave in the breeze where never flag waved before.
During our morning's ascent we had met no sign of animal life except the
small, sparrow-like bird already mentioned. A stillness the most
profound and a terrible solitude forced themselves constantly on the
mind as the great features of the place. Here on the summit where the
stillness was absolute, unbroken by any sound, and the solitude
complete, We thought ourselves beyond the region of animated life; but,
while we were sitting on the rock, a solitary bee (bromus, the
humble-bee) came winging his flight from the eastern valley, and lit on
the knee of one of the men. It was a strange place—the icy rock and
the highest peak of the Rocky Mountains—for a lover of warm sunshine and
flowers; and we pleased ourselves with the idea that he was the first of
his species to cross the mountain barrier, a solitary pioneer to
foretell the advance of civilization. I believe that a moment's thought
would have made us let him continue his way unharmed; but we carried out
the law of this country, where all animated nature seems at war, and,
seizing him immediately, put him in at least a fit place,—in the leaves
of a large book, among the flowers we had collected on our way. The
barometer stood at 18.293, the attached thermometer at 44°, giving for
the elevation of this summit 13,570 feet above the Gulf of Mexico, which
may be called the highest flight of the bee. It is certainly the highest
known flight of that insect. From the description given by Mackenzie of
the mountains where he crossed them with that of a French officer still
farther to the north and Colonel Long's measurements to the south,
joined to the opinion of the oldest traders of the country, it is
presumed that this is the highest peak of the Rocky Mountains. The day
was sunny and bright, but a slight shining mist hung over the lower
plains, which interfered with our view of the surrounding country. On
one side we overlooked innumerable lakes and streams, the spring of the
Colorado of the Gulf of California; and on the other was the Wind River
Valley, where were the heads of the Yellowstone branch of the Missouri.
Far to the north we just could discover the snowy heads of the Trois
Tetons, where were the sources of the Missouri and Columbia rivers; and
at the southern extremity of the ridge the peaks were plainly visible,
among which were some of the springs of the Nebraska or Platte River.
Around us the whole scene had one main striking feature, which was that
of terrible convulsion. Parallel to its length, the ridge was split into
chasms and fissures, between which rose the thin, lofty walls,
terminated with slender minarets and columns, which is correctly
represented in the view from the camp on Island Lake. According to the
barometer, the little crest of the wall on which we stood was 3,570 feet
above that place and 2,780 above the little lakes at the bottom,
immediately at our feet. Our camp at the Two Hills (an astronomical
station) bore south 3° east, which with a bearing afterwards obtained
from a fixed position enabled us to locate the peak. The bearing of the
Trois Tetons was north 50° west, and the direction of the central ridge
of the Wind River Mountains south 39° east. The summit rock was gneiss,
succeeded by sienitic gneiss. Sienite and feldspar succeeded in our
descent to the snow-line, where we found a feldspathic granite. I had
remarked that the noise produced by the explosion of our pistols had the
usual degree of loudness, but was not in the least prolonged, expiring
almost simultaneously. Having now made what observations our means
afforded, we proceeded to descend. We had accomplished an object of
laudable ambition, and beyond the strict order of our instructions. We
had climbed the loftiest peak of the Rocky Mountains, and looked down
upon the snow 1,000 feet below, and, standing where never human foot had
stood before, felt the exultation of first explorers. It was about two
o'clock when we left the summit; and, when we reached the bottom, the
sun had already sunk behind the wall, and the day was drawing to a
close. It would have been pleasant to have lingered here and on the
summit longer ; but we hurried away as rapidly as the ground would
permit, for it was an object to regain our party as soon as possible,
not knowing what accident the next hour might bring forth. We reached
our deposit of provisions at nightfall. Here was not the inn which
awaits the tired traveler on his return from Mont Blanc, or the orange
groves of South America, with their refreshing juices and soft, fragrant
air; but we found our little cache of dried meat and coffee undisturbed.
Though the moon was bright, the road was full of precipices, and the
fatigue of the day had been great. We therefore abandoned the idea of
rejoining our friends, and lay down on the rock, and in spite of the
cold slept soundly. |